It is occasionally said that Hanoi lacks any real nightlife of note. One might see in it a scene in its infancy, crawling towards a level of glamour and glow to one day (but not yet) rival any other major Asian city. One could look at it that way…as “not yet”…but you’d be missing more than you were seeing. Hanoi’s nightlife is very real and very present. Like much of living here, it has a unique feel not found in other parts of Asia. While it may be true that Hanoi is moving toward a style and scale comparable to other cities, its nuances are still here to be enjoyed.

On almost any early evening, the streets are abuzz with shoppers, friends and couples in cafes, and men drinking bia hoi on the sidewalks. Restaurants do a rollicking business. This is the Hanoian’s “night out,” but by 10pm there’s the distinct sense that things are slowing down. At 12am or 1am, those same busy streets are nearly deserted. Has the city really shut down?

Not entirely. While there are laws and a general custom in Hanoi that stipulates business should be finished and people in bed by 11pm, there are a great many pockets of activity in those darkened streets. When the cafes and bia hoi spots shut down, some Hanoians head off to sing karaoke or to “entertainment clubs.” These entertainment clubs can range from rather seedy joints that specialize in providing female company to much more classy places that have the lighthearted feel of a cabaret. Several more typical nightclubs also draw big crowds looking to shake their ass on the dance floor.

Expats and travelers venture into the local haunts with regularity, but they also have a whole series of bars and pubs that don’t draw as much from the local population. They are characterized by a mellow, intimate vibe with groups of friends and new acquaintances freely mixing. Some are large enough to generate a significant weekend party atmosphere while others are small enough to provide consistent social presence any day of the week.

When everybody is on good terms, these places can stay open until the wee hours of the morning, but there’s always the chance the police will roll up and kick everybody out. When they do, it’s no worry. Just hop on the bike and cruise the streets until the glow of the next spot comes into view. That is night in Hanoi. Scattered scenes of revelry and relaxation separated by the open-aired freedom of a motorbike ride through twisting empty streets. It won’t always be like this, but at least it is for now.

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